patrimoine mondial (12. 590)

As NPR reports, twenty-six new sites from all over the world have been inscribed into the UNESCO list of World Heritage (see previously) for 2025, including many we’d have thought would have already been among them like the ensemble of castles commissioned by King Ludwig II of Bavaria, Jamaica’s Port Royal, the memorials of the Cambodian genocide and the coasts of Morbihan with the megaliths of Carnac, necropolises in China and Sardinia and Minoan archeological sites in Crete. Click through at the link above for a full list of the new additions with extensive information about each location.

paris-flash (12. 586)

Via Messy Nessy Chic (whom has found an assortment of travel-related items including a bit more information on l’îlot rocheux de Nichtarguér) we are directed to the premiere animated short from Champeaux Studios—the founder in collaboration with Jean Image, stage-name of Imre Hajdú, also responsible for France’s first full-length animated film, Jeannot l'intrépide, Johnny the Giant-Killer). This satiric cartoon about a group of tourists, foreign visitors and one provincial, from 1958 but with a thoroughly contemporary style would have been screened in cinemas, like Looney Tunes, with newsreels before the feature. Sparse commentary by chanson artist Jacques Baudoin—unnecessary to enjoy the animation and visual presentations of the behaviour of tourists (we especially liked the montage of snapshots with the American party posing for selfies)—this portrait of Paris in the late 1950s won numerous accolades with its commanding audience-share. There are some light stereotypes, mostly to do with travellers abroad, which dates the work but don’t detract from the fun.

télégraph aérien (12. 575)

Having previously learned about the invention of the optical or semaphore communications system of Claude Chappe, we appreciated this retrospective and chance to revisit the contentious innovation that informed public perception and art movements into the nineteenth century. Hailed as a great advancement, the tachygraphic network that was being introduced just as the French Revolution was beginning in 1792 as a series of relay towers throughout the countryside and in metropolitan areas was by turns regarded as an achievement, condemned as an eyesore and viewed with suspicion. The cellular masts (or windmills) of their day, their addition to the tops of buildings, profane and sacred, was considered despoiling aesthetically—numerous examples of paintings from that period feature them prominently, sort of like the scaffolding that encased the Statue of Liberty during the eighties that become as iconic and emblematic as the unobscured monument—and the coded messages (the arrangement of the blades or wings corresponded to ninety-eight numbers) to be deciphered and passed on the next operator) were taken as something sinister, prompting the destruction of some towers either as signs of witchcraft (compare to the attacks on the 5G masts during COVID either as its cause or a government conspiracy to implant microchips in the population to control it) or to hinder accelerated responses to quell uprisings, the government privileged with this speeded up reaction not available to the protesters. A group of investors in Bordeaux were jailed, though ultimately acquitted, for bribing operators to transmit stock market figures from Paris hours ahead of when the gains and losses would be available to the competition—an abuse for the sight-lines that was never envisioned. Much more from Hyperallergic at the link above.

steudadoù karnag (12. 574)

Via Strange Company, we are serendipitously directed to an academic update in partnership with the University of Gothenburg with its share of megaliths (I still need to repair those posts from our Sweden trip made on a third party app...) on the Carnac Stones, excavating alignments in a previously unstudied area, Le Plasker adjacent to the ten kilometre stretch inland from Erdeven to the Bay of Morbihan, dating after several trials the original placements to 4700 BC (the landscape and the inventory has been significantly altered in pre-historic times and going forward) and thus not only confirming their age but also pre-dating other standing stone arrangements in Europe, like in England and Malta.

boule de lille (12. 572)

Having purchased the bright orange cheese—owing to the natural seasoning and colourant annatto, derived from the seeds of the achiote tree native to the tropics, similar to nutmeg but from more accessible climes in the American tropics and adopted by cheesemakers to imbue their product with the more intense colours of summer time cheeses year around (the higher carotene content in fresh grass that cows grazed on would pass through to the milk)—in slices at a supermarket during vacation—as opposed to a fromagerie, thinking it was the equivalent of cheddar, we were not aware that traditionally that Mimolette, originating in Nord and Lille, was created as a native substitute for the very popular variety of Edam cheese from the Netherlands. To distinguish it from the import, it was coloured, first with carrot juice and then later with the rise of the French East India Company (see previously) the more exotic spice—as are many other cheeses—and is aged as a ball, appearing like a a cantaloupe when sliced—the rind, grey-coloured, is infested with mites (see also) during the ripening process which enhances the flavour. The name comes from the French mi-mou for “semi-soft” referring to the slightly oily texture to the otherwise hard cheese.

synchronoptica

one year ago: plural forms of compound expressions (with synchronopticæ), assorted links to revisit plus Disco Demolition Night (1979)

eleven years ago: our VW bus plus the cost of camouflage 

jargeau (12. 556)

On the way back from Morbihan in south Brittany, we crossed back into the central Loire valley and found a nice campsite on l’île aux Moulins in the river between the later partitioned towns of Jargeau and St Denis de l’Hôtel, just outside of Orléans. This intermediate stop brought us back coincidentally to another connection with Joan of Arc.

It was here during the Hundred Years’ War, after receiving her field promotion, she had her first military success, delivering the town from English occupation on 12 June 1429–on battle’s anniversary in 1920, Joan was beatified and declared a national heroine. Following the Edict of Nantes to seek some accommodation for Protestantism, the town was split with the original community of Jargeau listed as a safe haven for Huguenots.

Symbolically as a statement against religious tolerance and to practically divide Republicans from Royalists, the ancient stone bridge linking the two communities was destroyed during the French Revolution and anti-clerical terror. The medieval foundations are still present as stepping stones but the new span was not completed until 1998. During Nazi occupation, the town was host to a concentration camp for political prisoners, specifically a KZ-Lager for Nomaden—that is, Roma and Sinti people rounded up. The area to the east of town, Le Clos Ferbois, made a memorial to the resistance and some seventeen thousand individuals who were incarcerated there.

synchronoptica

one year ago: the ancient quarter of Maccagno (with synchronopticæ)

thirteen years ago: musical performance rights in Germany, paternalism and the EU plus ad revenue

fourteen years ago: a cursed economy 

unblogged breizh (12. 565)

Some miscellany: Lots of streets here are named in honour of a Doctor Laennec. This esteemed individual from Quimper, René-Théophile-Hyacinthe, drawing on his skill with crafting wooden flutes as a hobby and a medical background, invented the stethoscope and defined many aspects of respiratory ailments, as well as introducing the technique of intubation and coining clinical terms like cirrhosis and melanoma.

While Germany has its preference for traffic circles as well, France really has perfected the rond-point or carrefour giratoire (treiñ-tro) at every crossroad (great and small), which really reduces the logistics of a left turn and the need for extra lanes and on- / off-ramps but can become a bit exhausting, particularly when every one is announced by the navigation.

Though the traditional protectress of Brittany is Mary’s mother Anne—with a basilica dedicated in her honour at Auray (after an apparition) and multiple patrons are no longer recognised, whose cult is first attested, the figure not developed as an ancestor of Jesus in the wider Church in Europe until long after established as mamm gozh ar Vretoned, grandmother of the Bretons.

The fête was finally made official by Pope Pius X on her feast day, 26 July, in 1914. The jubilee year marks the date when pilgrimages her shrine were authorised for the first time.

 

synchronoptica

one year ago: Lago Delio (with synchronopticæ) 

twelve years ago: a visit to Frankonian Switzerland 

sixteen years ago: IKEA napkin designs 

gwened (12. 564)

Capital of the Moribihan department of the Bretagne region, we made a visit to the ancient harbour and Old Town quarter of Vannes, whose ducal seat goes back to the Gallo-Roman settlement of Darioritum (then named for the seafaring Veneti people whose land was occupied, the Breton version derived from the same) and was considered the chief city and parliamentary centre of independent Brittany from the fifth century, with the first king Nominoë reigning in the early 1000s until the time of the French Revolution.

The entire medieval townscape was quite a sight to take in and we had quite a few impressions of the well-preserved, walled core and ensemble of historic buildings.

The heraldic charge of the city is the ermine, also reflected in the flag of Brittany, which we really like as the dog’s coat is similarly scored with a white spot on her chest with the same noble marking.

Another famous emblem of the patrimony of the city is a polychrome architectural element, Vannes et sa Femme, a stone bust of the couple dating from the sixteenth century incorporated into a half-timbered building’s façade (maison à colombage, presently a pizzeria) and the jovial pair possibly originally advertised a cabaret. This pixelated image affixed to a wall just outside Place Henry-IV is perhaps an homage to Missus Vannes.

littoral (12. 563)

The commune encompassing several small villages and hamlets and islands including Île de Saint Cado and the Étel riviera, the administrative anchor town of Belz, which despite having grown as a tourist destination has retained its character as a small village only expanding off one central main street (see also) with the townhall intact with original bell tower.

The toponym is thought to have come from the Breton form of the name of the Celtic god Belenos, a serpent with the head of ram—uncoincidentally our hermit above is said to have driven out the snakes from the islands, coinciding with the destruction of many megaliths, though the prehistoric iconoclasm was not universal and most were only cannibalised for ready building material.

The community observed the eightieth anniversary of the Normandy landings and Allied flags of the UK, Canada and the US are still hanging above the streets with more information at the memorial of Belz and its involvement in the wars of the twentieth century.

synchronoptica

one year ago: the castles of Bellinzona (with synchronopticæ) plus the US supreme court grants presidents blanket immunity for official acts

ten years ago: America calling for an end to hostilities in Ukraine plus mediation and mantras 

fourteen years ago: Germany ends mandatory military service 

sixteen years ago: synthetic trees for carbon capture 

habitués à pêcher (12. 562)

Returning to the Quiberon peninsula, we drove all the way to the southern tip to explore—as much as the oppressive heat would admit—the eponymous fishing village, stopping to marvel at more sites along the rugged coast explored to the Atlantic, unlike the protected eastern shores sheltered by the gulf.

We visited the old harbour of Port-Haliguen, which like all fishing villages in the area benefited greatly from the commerce and catch up through the Belle Époque—particularly Quiberon which had become the world’s first cannery after Nicolas Appert of Châlons-en-Champagne introduced his airtight food preservation process, applying corking techniques and sanitization on an industrial scale and establishing a tinning operation.

The sardine crisis first emerged during the 1902-1903 season and while most communities were able to adapt with deep sea fishing for tuna and mackerel, this unfortunate timing meant that the invention of Appert was no commercial success and the process of food perseveration was gifted to the public. Quiberon maintains canning operations and the port is a marina for leisure and departures for outlying islands.

synchronoptica

one year ago: the Holy Mountain of Varese (with synchronopticæ)

twelve years ago: a visit to Linsengericht plus snooping on NATO partners

fourteen years ago: more on the Greek financial crisis

fifteen years ago: the lowly mosquito 

presqu'île (12. 560)

Returning to the long, narrow peninsula of Gârves opposite Port-Louis via the route sandwiched between two beach fronts, we took in some more views of the harbour and marina of this an storied fishing village and ancient former quarry.

Though stable since the Middle Ages, this tombolo (see previously, the first documented mention cutes three isolated islands) is the outermost reach of the drifting dune massiv and is threatened with erosion, especially in the built up areas.

The fortifications at Pohr-Puns was build at the end of the seventeenth century as advance defence for Port-Louis and Lorient and the batteries in the sparsely populated areas along the dunes were an experimental training grounds in the 1800s to test the range and effectiveness of artillery on battleships, known as the Gârves Commission, ballistic research continues here to this day under the auspices of a nearby naval base.

synchronoptica

one year ago: a visit to the Rocco di Caldè (with synchronopticæ) 

twelve years ago: plugging leaks 

thirteen years ago: redefining the second 

fourteen years ago: the introduction of the bar code 

fifteen years ago: busting a Russian spy ring 

tumuli (12. 559)

Although closed to visitors due to protect the site still being researched by archaeologists, wandering through the archway of thick ferns and undergrowth approaching the Tumulus of Tumiac, the monumental burial mound (Hügelgrab) in the town of Arzon was very impressive to ponder.

The fifteen metre high and two hundred metre circumference man made hill with an interior vault filled with precious grave goods constructed around 4000 BC provides a commanding perspective of the area and out to sea. According to local lore, hence the nickname Caesar’s Butte, it was from here that the Roman general witnessed the naval victory of his fleet against the Veneti in 56 BC, four millennia later, who were more skilled pilots and whose sturdy ships were impervious to ramming, and thus sealed the conquest of Gaul—though assimilation was more of a negotiated peace particularly with this sophisticated tribe who allowed the Romans entry to their trading partners on the British Isles. The tomb itself was not excavated and studied until 1830.

We also visited the nearby le Petit Mont also at the head of the Rhuys peninsula by the Port of Crouesty, the older and slightly smaller megalithic cairn was converted to a temple of Venus during Gallo Roman occupation and originally contained three tombs, though one was destroyed during WWII when the mound was converted into a bunker by the Nazis, though the exterior architecture mostly remains true to the original.