les étoiles d’ivry (13. 511)

Via ibīdem, we are directed to the ensemble housing estate of Ivry ˢ/ Seine, a Parisian suburb just southeast of the capital, designed by architects Renée Gailhoustet and Jean Renaudie constructed between 1969 and 1975, happily still standing though in need of some care and attention. The name of the mixed-used complex with forty residential units for social housing with commercial and office spaces refers the stellar rays of the triangular points of exposed concrete and whilst the overall style could be described as Brutalist (see also here and here), the open form structure with staggered verdant terraces and ramps and platforms connecting public and private spaces has an element of social engagement and spontaneity of interaction not found in all projects of the genre. See more photographs and floor plans from Architecture Lab at the link above.

9x9 (13. 499)

of all the us presidents he’s still the mussoliniest: Randy Rainbow reprises his rendition of the Major General’s Song, see previously—via Miss Cellania  

twenty-first century nightmares: Bill Hsu presents a collection of dark animated films 

hello dalí: a marginally remastered copy of the bizarre 1973 ITV profile of the artist surfaces on Youtube  

éolienne: an innovative nineteenth century redesign for the windmill  

responding with improvisation and exhaustion: meeting the subliterate where they are is a disservice to education  

necropolis: marine researchers discover the site of a whale fall in a deep rift valley of the Indian ocean  

guest-starring in alphabetical order: Poseidon’s Underworld on the short-lived 1984 television series Glitter about the cast of a glossy magazine  

the meatseller: an harrowing and brutal animation of a young migrant’s journey from Nigeria to Italy 

 there was nothing in al capone’s vault but it wasn’t geraldo’s fault: premiere episode of America’s history in one hundred objects (see also) begins with an underwhelming time capsule opened in 1976

days ninety-eight and ninety-nine (13. 490)

Glomming on to another crisis whipped into a social media frenzy, US secretary of war Pete Hegseth used the observation of the anniversary of D-Day speaking from the beaches at Normandy to cast aspersions on liberated Europe over its immigration policy and courting cultural erasure with another sort of invasion. Whilst Pakistani diplomats continue to work behind the scenes, talks seemingly remain stalled—though American has ostensibly entertained the idea of paying reparations to Tehran, Washington is also floating the idea of confiscating Iranian assets to fund reconstruction projects for gulf nation allies who have sustained losses during the conflict.  Pope Leo condemns the adventure as a unjust war.  

 synchronoptica

one year ago: Psycho Killer (with synchronopticæ) plus a sign post forest

fourteen years ago: Friday afternoon crises plus German fiscal solidarity

fifteen years ago: German chancellor awarded the US Freedom medal 

sixteen years ago: the chemical topography of Saturn plus performer Tom Jones

leval ii (13. 489)

 

For the first time on a return trip, I think, we stayed again at the campsite outside the village of Leval near the German border for the last overnighter before getting back home, prepared this time now to try to capture some images of the brooding stork nests that seemed to occupy every available eave and column of the little town.

The wading birds are considered a symbol of Alsace of course—we hadn’t encountered such a preponderance of them before—and the subject of many legends and folktales, like the tradition of the Easter bunny that also originated here, first described by fifteenth-century botanist (see also) Georg Franck von Franckenau of Strasbourg, and though their association with fertility and expectant mothers go back to Ancient Egyptian myth, the lore was especially articulated in the Middle Ages, with storks said to retrieve babies from a nursery hidden inside caves and dropped them down the chimney (chimney-sweeping also understood psychoanalytically as an expression wish fulfilment or magical-thinking) of desirous households.

synchronoptica

one year ago: curating the Apocalypse (with synchronopticæ) plus Elton John’s debut album

fifteen years ago: misused tools plus macroeconomic woes

sixteen years ago: the year of the Tiger 

 

 

via rhôna (13. 487)

 

Our intermediate stop on the way back home brought us again to the banks of the Drôme, staying at a municipal campground on les Îles de Silon directly on the confluence of the the Galaure and Rhône rivers on the outskirts of the village Saint-Vallier. A Gallo-Roman station, called Ursuli, at least since the reign of Claudius on the Via Agrippa, the town is now stop on the EuroVelo cycle route that runs from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean, following the river valley.

These step-up bivouacs are specially made to accommodate bikers and we thought we could manage such a construction at the edge of our property for bikers passing through—addressing the lack of real pitches in our village. Saint-Vallier’s most famous daughter was the fourteenth century courtesan Diane de Poitiers, who wielded much power and influence as Henri II’s royal mistress and adviser. Killed in a jousting accident, the king’s widow, Catherine de’Medici, had de Poitiers exiled after his death and Catherine’s unpopular regency for the legitimate heirs was highly unpopular and destabilising, leading to the French Wars of Religion.

ajaccio nach toulon (13. 485)

 

Departing Corsica—this time on the MS Mega Regina, the cruiseferry sold after the Helsinki-Stockholm route was curtailed during the pandemic in 2021 and put to sea in the Mediterranean where demand was more sustainable—we had to pace ourselves with the drive, unsure about how easy it would be to park a caravan on the streets of Ajaccio before the pier was opened for boarding, and stationed ourselves at various points along the way. We shared the dock with the Royal Clipper, a five-masted tall-ship. The steel-hulled sailboat, the largest in the world, was originally built by Polish communist authorities at the shipyards of Gdańsk as a floating vacation home for miners and their families and regularly crosses the Atlantic with passengers. The return trip was a bit rougher with more waves and wind but we survived, arriving back at Toulon.

portu ii (13. 482)

 

For our last full day in Corsica, we returned to Porto (Portu)—the harbour of the community of Ota, located higher up on the cliffs, and enjoyed a longer stroll around the marina, watching the waves break against the rocks at the foot of the Torregiana, the fifteenth century fortified watchtower to rebuff piracy. 

Marvelling also at the mountains that just a bit inland gave us the sense of being in a massive crater, we descended to the roiling rapids of the stream to the so called Grotto of the Serpents, a cave whose weathered features certainly can conjure up all sorts of phantasms.

 

 

synchronoptica

one year ago:  Gideon v Wainwright (with synchronopticæ), the Carpenters in space (1978) plus Star Trek: TOS’ disappointing final episode

fourteen years ago: more EU budgetary shortfalls plus Mid-Century Modern textile patterns 

fifteen years ago: public-facing websites 

sixteen years ago: social media and SharePoint 

seventeen years ago: eavesdropping 

mare e monti (13. 480)

 

Driving to the clifftop of Col de la Croix in Osani, we took a hike down the verdant slope through the nature reserve of the peninsula of La Scandola, the oldest on the island and included in the UNESCO registry, down in the direction of the gulf of Girolata. There are three such “mountain and sea” trails in Corsica and our short walk was only a tiny portion of the system of long-distance trails along the western coast.

Though we didn’t quite make it to the isolated, former fishing village—touted by boating excursion operators as an abandoned pirate town, most of whom are not allowed to lay anchor there, we discovered, and so a little suspect as a tourist trap—accessible otherwise only by foot, we nonetheless had a very nice walk through the woods punctuated with stretches of marquis shrubland of savanna-like evergreens, myrtle and oleander—called machja in Corsican, the ground cover gives off a distinctive piney aroma, and discovered a pebble beach in one of the coves which we had all to ourselves, sharing it only with a couple of sedate cows.  

corti (13. 477)

 

Traveling on inland to Haute Corsica, we drove through the dramatic and picturesque Restonica valley with the reservoir of Calacuccia to the island’s centre and explored the city of Corte (Corti), which under the leadership of statesman and resistance fighter Pasquale Paoli led the independence movement first from the Genoese and later the French, was the capital of the free republic from 1755 to 1769. The desire for self-determination has not fade in the ensuing centuries, evinced by the defaced, blacking out the French spelling of place names, and bullet-ridden roadsigns not a protest to over-tourism (though I suspect that might be a factor, with some of the traffic snarls encountered) and nationalist symbols and regular demonstrations at Paoli’s namesake university, and after the French takeover, the Corsican patriot was exiled to Britain, becoming rather a cause célèbre.

After the French Revolution, which Paoli initially supported until realising that the Bonapartes and their compatriots were devising a restoration and more of the same, and helped establish the short lived client state of the Anglo-Corsican Kingdom (Riame anglu-corsu) under George III but was unable to prevent French reoccupation. A young Napoleon, member of the national guard and supporter of Corsican autonomy, idolised Paoli, but the affection was not mutual, seeing them, Napoleon’s father, Carlo Maria, an attorney from Ajaccio, had briefly served with Paoli in the resistance but changed sides to become a collaborator, as opportunists and untrustworthy. During the father’s time in Corti, Napoleon’s eldest brother, Ghjuseppe Bonaparte, was born—who trained also as a lawyer used his position within the revolutionary government of the First Republic to incite the Coup d’Ètat of 18 Brumaire, Year VIII, and install his sibling as chief consul—eventually leading to his coronation as Emperor of the French. As a consolation prize for being as over as the first born, Joseph was elevated to the rank of King of Naples and Sicily—much to the irritation of the dethroned incumbents—and later King of Spain and the Indies. Whereas Giuseppe I was able to court the elites in Italy, Jose I was deeply despised by his Spanish subjects who called him Pepe Botella (Joe Bottle) for his reputation for being a bad drunk, eventually revolting.

 

After the Battle of Leipzig and Waterloo, Joseph styled himself as Comte de Survilliers (the count of a small town northeast of Paris) and moved to Bordentown New Jersey, commissioning the estate Point Breeze in 1816, at the time, the largest residence in North America. The city was a beautiful jumble of ancient houses, ramparts and a belvedere overlooking the Renaissance era citadel—again built by Genovese occupiers—and the inhabitants, the Curtinesi, were friendly and welcoming. 

 

According to legend, the city was founded by a Trojan knight, choosing a spot in the middle of the island to maintain his authority over local tenant lords. Corsica came under the vassalage of the Roman Empire during the Punic Wars, the imperial forces routing the armies of the natives and Carthage during a territorial dispute. In the seventh century, it was taken by the Saracens. Genoa intervenes in the fourteenth century to drive out the Moors (remind me, we need to talk about Maurice) and with brief but multiple periods of ecclesiastical rule by local bishops the entire island comes under control of governors appointed by the Doge in 1511.