ohratal (13. 770)

Travelling a bit northeast towards Gotha, we visited the community of Luisenthal to see the dam of the river Ohra that flowed west of Oberhof on the edge of a high moor, which from the Middle Ages onward not only was an important for its fisheries but also a precursor to the Industrial Age, the waters powering mills and with abundant timber copper- and ironworks. The reservoir, now used for drinking water, flood-control and hydroelectricity was originally contained in 1957 due to the relative softness and purity, the low calcium content an idea source for steam engines and locomotives (see previously). We walked the circuit of the dam from the town’s centre and hiking back through a rather lush valley on a narrow footpath behind the waterworks and treatment facilities. We could really see how much the levels have been depleted gauging from the intake-tower’s exposed façade. 

Heading back through Ohrdruf through the communities of Schwarzwald and Crawinkel through the former river valley and stopped to see what we could see of one of the old smithies, called Tobiashammer (a forge with a water-driven trip hammer) used to finish machine parts, decommissioned just in 1972, but the museum’s entrance was closed. We spent more time, in fairer weather checking out the grounds of Schloß Ehrenstein, the Renaissance palace commissioned for the counts of Gleichen—a cadet line of the duchy of Pyrmont, and more of the small town’s historical centre.

The site of the moated castle was originally host to the first Christian cloister in Thüringen, founded by Saint Boniface (previously) during his missionary work in Germany. Ohrdruf is proud of this legacy too, as with other native son Bach (see above). Vacated by the Carmelites after the Reformation and fallen into disrepair, the palace took the place of the dissolved community in the mid sixteenth century.

synchronoptica

one year ago: assorted links worth revisiting (with synchronoptica), the funeral of Princess Diana (1997) plus US speaker of the house suggests that Trump was an FBI informant to explain his association with Jeffrey Epstein

two years ago: a nuclear war preparedness exercise 

three years ago: a banger from The Jam, computer artwork from Keith Harring plus a novelty song from Ginette Garcin

four years ago: Boris Johnson returns plus more links to enjoy 

five years ago: even more links,  Jimi Hendrix’ last concert (1970), Leningrad renamed St Petersburg (1991) plus anthropomorphic Roman dice

six years ago: Trump makes the cover of Time magazine plus a tour of Little Switzerland

lütschetalsperre (13. 768)

Having to get the camper seen for its annual inspection, we decided to make a long weekend of it and returned to the Ilm district, near the workshop, and took a camping pitch on the Lütsche reservoir outside of the town of Frankenhain on the northern slope of the Thuringian Forest. On the way there, we stopped in Geratal and saw the memorial to the death march to Buchenwald from one of the three concentration camps in the area (see more)—again missing the garden gnome factory, maybe next time.

The water levels looked pretty low after the drought conditions of the summer but the reservoir was being slowly replenished and the surrounding woods seem to have survived successive heat waves, still we know that nature is under stress. Sustainably logged and protected since the first human settlements around the sixth century, the area has always had a thick cover of woods, the inhabitant at the edge of the Thüringer Wald primarily making a living from carpentry, resin, tapping, pitch production and escorting merchants and travellers through the rather dark and foreboding forest. The Stauseen (see above) were later additions with the development of industry and agricultural was only suitable for certain, limited areas of the basin.

Petrol and diesel is always more expensive on the Autobahn and we saw these prices at noon, the one time per day that German stations are allowed to raise prices since the start of the Iran war, but it was nonetheless pretty shocking, coinciding with learning that diesel prices in the States had hit an all time record, even surpassing the jump experienced when Russia invaded Ukraine. Thankfully, it was not a very long trip to this landscape that feels very different than home.

synchronoptica

one year ago: the second assassination attempt on Gerald Ford (with synchronoptica), a mad-lib style search engine comparison plus comics captions swaps

two years ago: America begins its bicentennial celebrations, coordination problems plus Trump announces the Department of Government Efficiency  

three years ago: assorted links to revisit 

four years ago: Tainted Love (1981) plus more links to enjoy

five years ago: DW Griffith’s Intolerance (1916),  European coats-of-arms mapped plus The Muppet Show (1976)

six years ago: the Gotthard Tunnel opens (1980) 

rhönblick (13. 031)

For a sunny but cold and bracing Christmas Day walkies, we trekked to a little shelter on the peak of the Leichelberg near the Ellenbogen overlooking the village of Kaltensundheim and the valley of the Felda, a tributary of the Werra, below. 

The march of this border region of East Franconia with the documented mention in 23 December 795 was fortified with a Kirchenburg in Romanesque style in the early fifteenth century as well with a protective wall and gates and was originally under the jurisdiction of the counts of Henneberg but with the branching off the family over successive generations, properties of the district was divided among several collateral lines, the villages flanking each side of the mountain, Kaltensundheim, Kaltennordheim, Oberkatz and Aschenhausen falling under different lordships with shifting alliances. 

 In the latter on the opposite side of the mountain, we visited the former synagogue, among the few intact testaments to the long history of the Jewish community in Thüringen it was saved from arson by locals during the Pogroms of 1936 and after expulsions preserved as a warehouse, restored as an assembly hall and memorial with information about the history and Holocaust. 

 Between Aschenhausen and Kaltensundheim (since reunited as constituents under one a single municipality) there was a pictureques landscape of series of ponds at the woods edge for exploring but it was too chilly in the shadows for much looking around today but will definitely return soon.

noahs segel (12. 885)

Though we had been to the slopes of the Ellenbogen mountain before and visited the restaurant at the Thüringer Rhönhaus, we never made it to the summit before to see the viewing platform completed in 2017.  

On the way, however, the foggy and overcast weather did not seem so promising until the last couple of kilometres with climbing elevation the skies gloriously opened up. An extinct volcano, it is one of the highest points in the range and on a clear day, one is awarded with vistas of Bavaria, Hesse and Thüringen near the tri-point where the three states touch. On a clear day, from the observation tower—named Noah’s Sail for its information centre about the local flora and fauna and its profile—one can see the Brocken as well as the neighbouring peaks of the Wasserkuppe and the Milseburg. 

Though H didn’t want to join, I took that slide back down and had a nice sunny walk to the top across the massif before descending afterwards back into the fog bank of lower altitudes.

synchronoptica

one year ago: assorted links worth the revisit (with synchronopticæ), animated GIFs from Etienne Jacobs plus a survey of international traffic signs and license plates

thirteen years ago: carnival season 

fourteen years ago: modern geoglyphs plus Kissinger and Clinton 

fifteen years ago: security theatre plus adopt a word

sixteen years ago: a mythical member of the German parliament 

seventeen years ago: keeping it local 

tal und berg, time and temperature (12. 688)

Running some errands back in the Geratal region, we took a stroll through the village above the valley called Geraberg, higher up on the slope of the Arlesberg on the northern edge of the Thüringer Wald. Though first mentioned in a deed of gift to the Henneberg knights for its vineyards in the eleventh century, the area was more famous of its traditions of mining and forestry, fuelling the smelting of iron ore. The cadet industries of glass-making and porcelain manufacturer developed in the nineteenth century and taking advantage of one by-product of mining operations, mercury, Geraberg became a centre of technical expertise for the making of clinical thermometers (that’s one in the main traffic circle) and other glass medical instruments, beginning in 1873 and lasting until 1990, employing some two-thousand individuals. There was also a museum dedicated to the village’s association with the device, along with the broader technological advancements from contact to digital thermometers and thermostats, closed Mondays but looks worth checking out on a return trip.

synchronoptica

one year ago: a pivotal moment in the Star Trek timeline (with synchronopticæ), aspiring travel-writers, assorted links worth revisiting, a trip to Schwickershausen plus the largest aerospace exhibition

thirteen years ago: Saxon castles plus selbst gebackt biscotti

fourteen years ago: holding the UN for ransom 

fifteen years ago: more ado about Glühbirne plus conceptual Star Wars posters

militärgeschichtliches denkmal (12. 592)

After doing the weekend shopping in Mellrichstadt (previously), we stopped in the in the Hainberg Arreal on the edge of town for a walk on the groups of the mothballed border garrison of the Cold War. By the old security gate there was a collection of the kind of tanks from the motor pool and the headquarters building preserved in its original condition, furnished as it was during its forty-four year history as home base to the 352nd Panzer Grenadier Battalion of the West German Bundeswehr. 

The museum and documentation centre was closed when we visited but I got immediate feelings of nostalgia for the former US army barracks in Würzburg, Kitzigen, Schweinfurt, Giebelstadt, etc, etc with the same general layout and style of the few representative structures—which of course were German-built and occupied by the Allies at the end of World War II—but learned it contains the command room with access to the bunker and fallout shelter (see also, worth going back for) as well as an arms room and information on the unit’s patrols and foreign missions up to Afghanistan in 2006 after which the brigade was disbanded and the base closed.

hohenwartetalsperre iii (12.497)

Early in the day, we took a trip to the larger town of Ranis to stock up on provisions and revisited the fortified castle, with its Ilsenhöse passage leading from the bailey to the old market recently confirmed to have some of the oldest prehistoric evidence for the settlement of Homo sapiens in the region—more than forty-five thousand years ago, particularly rare for an urbanised area.

The eleventh-century castle on a promontory overlooking the town has been in the ownership of the Germany Red Cross since 1994, the dynasty of von Breitenbuch selling the historic site for a nominal fee. Back at the campgrounds, we followed a trail along the water’s edge to a forest path littered with slate—a common architectural element for the region that afforded us some commanding views of the artistic bends in the watercourse.

synchronoptica

one year ago: a US supreme court justice flies provocative flags (with synchronoptica), a WWII battle for an Aleutian island, the anatomy of a limerick plus Trump found guilty of falsifying business records 

seven years ago: all about Ostheim

nine year ago: a wearable, in-ear translator plus giving Tumblr a try

ten years ago: Swiss cheese goes blind plus Alf’s hip-hop album

eleven years ago: mourning a ruined laptop, semi-conducting cement plus getting ready to travel to Lake Como

hohenwartetalsperre ii (12. 496)

While we’ve undoubtedly both been off for Ascension Day (Christi Himmelfahrt, forty days after Easter) and knew about the conflation and coopting of the public holiday as Vatertag, Herrentag or Männertag to disassociate it from religious overtones especially in atheist East Germany with a emphasis on partying and taking a nice long hike with a wagon-load of beer (without the family members in tow), we had never really witnessed the celebrations en mass.

We wanted to go wandering along a narrow footpath above the shoreline to the next village of Linkenmühle, hosting a guesthouse and the only ferry in the state of Thuringia, which we made but the going was a bit uncomfortable with the added traffic of the holiday and inebriated men pulling carts. The gastronomy was very crowded but we enjoyed ourselves and decided to take the highroad back via a logging path over the mountain.

It was a steep climb and with a field blackberry (Brombeer) brambles that we needed to carry the dogs over due to the thorns of but worth it for the views and very much to ourselves. We came to an establishment called Ziegenhof—a working goat farm—with caprine-based refreshments, including goat-milk ice cream and a variety of cheeses—on the way back down to the campsite.

Through the night, several party barges were launched—we could hear the music as they passed, familiar Schlager song mostly but a few new to me, like this rendition Wir haben Grund zum Feiern (We have a Reason to Party to the tune of “We Didn’t Start the Fire”—see also) from the dock for a tour of the reservoir.

synchronoptica

one year ago: laundry lessons from Japan (with synchronoptica), assorted links worth the revisit plus a post-war postscript from Thomas Mann

seven years ago: Native Americans granted citizenship 

ten years ago: the founding of Leipzig, more links to enjoy plus acceptable facial hair for Norwegian sailors

twelve years ago: furloughing federal workers  

thirteen years ago: Germans and joy plus counterfeit wine