Driving to the clifftop of Col de la Croix in Osani, we took a hike down the verdant slope through the nature reserve of the peninsula of La Scandola, the oldest on the island and included in the UNESCO registry, down in the direction of the gulf of Girolata. There are three such “mountain and sea” trails in Corsica and our short walk was only a tiny portion of the system of long-distance trails along the western coast.
Though we didn’t quite make it to the isolated, former fishing village—touted by boating excursion operators as an abandoned pirate town, most of whom are not allowed to lay anchor there, we discovered, and so a little suspect as a tourist trap—accessible otherwise only by foot, we nonetheless had a very nice walk through the woods punctuated with stretches of marquis shrubland of savanna-like evergreens, myrtle and oleander—called machja in Corsican, the ground cover gives off a distinctive piney aroma, and discovered a pebble beach in one of the coves which we had all to ourselves, sharing it only with a couple of sedate cows.











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