Traveling on inland to Haute Corsica, we drove through the dramatic and picturesque Restonica valley with the reservoir of Calacuccia to the island’s centre and explored the city of Corte (Corti), which under the leadership of statesman and resistance fighter Pasquale Paoli led the independence movement first from the Genoese and later the French, was the capital of the free republic from 1755 to 1769. The desire for self-determination has not fade in the ensuing centuries, evinced by the defaced, blacking out the French spelling of place names, and bullet-ridden roadsigns not a protest to over-tourism (though I suspect that might be a factor, with some of the traffic snarls encountered) and nationalist symbols and regular demonstrations at Paoli’s namesake university, and after the French takeover, the Corsican patriot was exiled to Britain, becoming rather a cause cรฉlรจbre.



After the French Revolution, which Paoli initially supported until realising that the Bonapartes and their compatriots were devising a restoration and more of the same, and helped establish the short lived client state of the Anglo-Corsican Kingdom (Riame anglu-corsu) under George III but was unable to prevent French reoccupation. A young Napoleon, member of the national guard and supporter of Corsican autonomy, idolised Paoli, but the affection was not mutual, seeing them, Napoleon’s father, Carlo Maria, an attorney from Ajaccio, had briefly served with Paoli in the resistance but changed sides to become a collaborator, as opportunists and untrustworthy. During the father’s time in Corti, Napoleon’s eldest brother, Ghjuseppe Bonaparte, was born—who trained also as a lawyer used his position within the revolutionary government of the First Republic to incite the Coup d’รtat of 18 Brumaire, Year VIII, and install his sibling as chief consul—eventually leading to his coronation as Emperor of the French. As a consolation prize for being as over as the first born, Joseph was elevated to the rank of King of Naples and Sicily—much to the irritation of the dethroned incumbents—and later King of Spain and the Indies. Whereas Giuseppe I was able to court the elites in Italy, Jose I was deeply despised by his Spanish subjects who called him Pepe Botella (Joe Bottle) for his reputation for being a bad drunk, eventually revolting.




After the
Battle of Leipzig and Waterloo, Joseph styled himself as Comte de Survilliers (the count of a small town northeast of Paris) and moved to Bordentown New Jersey, commissioning the estate Point Breeze in 1816, at the time, the largest residence in North America. The city was a beautiful jumble of ancient houses, ramparts and a belvedere overlooking the Renaissance era citadel—again built by Genovese occupiers—and the inhabitants, the Curtinesi, were friendly and welcoming.
According to legend, the city was founded by a Trojan knight, choosing a spot in the middle of the island to maintain his authority over local tenant lords. Corsica came under the vassalage of the Roman Empire during the Punic Wars, the imperial forces routing the armies of the natives and Carthage during a territorial dispute. In the seventh century, it was taken by the Saracens. Genoa intervenes in the fourteenth century to drive out the Moors (remind me, we need to talk about
Maurice) and with brief but multiple periods of ecclesiastical rule by local bishops the entire island comes under control of governors appointed by the Doge in 1511.