Saturday, 4 July 2026

karlstadt am main (13. 590)

 




 
Next we travelled further into the Franconian wine-growing region of Main-Spessart to Karlstadt facing the Karlsburg, the village of Mรผhlbach hosting the castle ruins (destroyed during the Bauernkrieg in 1625) and harbour on the opposite bank of the river. The thirteenth century town on the eastern shore was founded by the bishopric of Wรผrzburg to defend its territories against the marauding Counts if Rieneck, the streets of the Altstadt laid out like a chessboard.



 
We hiked up to the remains of the spur fortress, built sometime before the eighth century, perhaps at the direction of Charles Martel, situated on the broad rocky promontory overlooking the river and valley below, the landscape of fields, pastures and vineyards now dominated by huge silos where agricultural products are stored, staged and loaded onto barges.  Though I did not capture it in the best light, we appreciated the photogenic signage that the town had on display at the river bank, like they have for Amsterdam, Gdaล„sk, etc.


kloster schรถnau (13. 589)

 





Originally founded as a monastery dedicated to the Immaculate Conception in the late tenth century by ministerialis (a type of dependent knight, see previously here and here) by Philipp von Thรผngen zu HeรŸlar with the support of the bishopric of Wรผrzburg as a pilgrimage destination managed by Cistercian nuns of local nobility until the nuns were forced to flee during the Peasants’ Revolt and the last abbess, Veronika Geyer von Giebelstadt returned the property to the diocese, cloister Schรถnau was given over to a Franciscan friar in the early 1700s, remodeled in the Baroque style, which informs the look today, and acquired the relics of two catacomb saints from Rome, reinterred and adding to the its appeal for pilgrims, called Viktor and Antonius.




Slated for dissolution in 1803 as part of the securalisation of Church land  within the Kingdom of Bavaria, monks refused to abandon the site until only one was left in 1827, Brother Totnan Schech, surviving to an advanced age out of determination and witnessing the decree of King Ludwig I, restoring some still active Church property. Though repopulated back then, the site is today only home to two priests and one monk providing pastoral services to the community—with a hostel for visitors. Schรถnau is celebrating the recent eighth-hundredth anniversary of the order and as a reminder that St Francis invented the creche, there is a sixteenth-century historical Nativity Scene, not trying to be a costume-drama.

bicentenary (13. 588)

Culminating on this day in 1976, a decade in planning and preceded by numerous events, both sanctioned and unsanctioned by the US government including the Boston Oil Party, when objects symbolising the petroleum industry were tossed in the city’s harbour to promote environmental justice and declare independence from polluting corporations and Richard Nixon was hanged in effigy, elected representatives reenacted the first Continental Congress, a state visit by the Queen, the Freedom Train made a circuit of the nation and a time-capsule opened, America celebrated its the beginning of its third century, focused on themes of renewal and rebirth, recently have endure the Watergate scandal and the Fall of Saigon. The logo was designed by Bruce Blackburn, who also modernised the NASA insignia (see also here and here). The bicentennial parade in Philadelphia was lead by grand marshal Johnny Cash and the US space agency unveiled its first test vehicle in its line of space shuttles—originally to be christened the Constitution in honour of the anniversary but renamed Enterprise due to popular demand.   Fifty years on, the holiday will probably be marked with the end of the fourteenth and seventeenth amendments, reversing birth-right citizenship and direct voting for senatorial representation.

synchronoptica

one year ago: another cosmic interloper (with synchronoptica) plus One Big Beautiful Bill 

two years ago:  the introduction of the Caesar salad (1925) plus the waterfalls of Mount Cuvignone

three years ago: David Bowie’s Station to Station, My Country ’Tis of Thee plus forgotten American mascots

four years ago: an ancient nebula 

five years ago: occupied Austria plus local flora 

six years ago: American Top 40 (1970), Nixon’s Honor America Day plus the superlative of free

Friday, 3 July 2026

gemรผnden am main (13. 587)

 


For the long weekend, H and I returned to Gemรผnden on the Main river for an extended stay at a campsite at the confluence of the three chief tributaries. I wondered about the coat of arms, that seems to show an architecturally impossible cast with elevated turrets on the crenellated walls—though it’s meant to convey perspective, behind the greater tower—something which heraldry does not generally do, representing the hilltop ruin of Schloss Scherenburg and the other fortifications (see above) built by the Counts of Rieneck to collect tolls.





Officially (amtlich), we also noticed that it is rendered a.Main, like other towns in the area—rather than Gemรผnden ยช/ Main or Gemรผnden (Main), which I am pretty sure it used to be—perhaps to avoid confusing computers, see previously. Despite being in the middle of the war-torn region of the Peasants’ Revolt (Bauernkrieg, 1524 to 1525), the town survived in part due to the revenue that the important navigable juncture brought. Gemรผnden’s strategic location on the waterway, however, caused it to be a target of Allied air raids during World War II, over sixty percent of the Altstadt destroyed but rebuilt according to its original character in the 1950s and 60s.

excommunicado (13. 586)

Despite warnings and pleas from the Pope addressed to the superior general of the Society of St Pius X (SSPX) that the unauthorised ordination of four bishops would be considered a schismatic act and result in excommunication for parties involved, the consecration ceremony proceeded, held in a field outside of ร‰cรดne Switzerland, with an atmosphere, merchandising and social media influencers more befitting a happening like SXSW.  The Vatican, however, went further than anticipated, in excommunicating not only the bishops and those directly involved but the whole community of followers, reversing decades of concessions granted in hopes of repairing the rift. Not only are the newly defrocked denied holy sacrament, they cannot officiate weddings and funerals nor conduct masses for the estimated six hundred thousand parishioners who regularly attend services conducted by the priestly fraternity. Founded in 1970 by conservative archbishop Marcel Lefebvre (namesake the anti-modernist Pope Pius) in response to the reforms of Vatican II meant to make the Church more accessible, stopping mass in Latin in favour of delivering sermons in the local vernacular, improving inter-faith relations, expanding the role of deacons and other lay members, among other changes which the traditionalists oppose. Tensions with Holy See heightened when in 1988, Lefebvre consecrated the four original bishops without apostolic mandate and was excommunicated by John Paul II.

9x9 (13. 585)

hospitalithings: a quiet, meticulous observation of common objects found in lodgings—via Nag on the Lake  

aka vlogging: Hank Green interviews Ze Frank (previously) about the YouTube format he pioneered, advising discomfort to put ideas out into the world—via Waxy  

yes, yes, very good—thank you for self-identifying as a short-sighted rube and saving us the trouble: the US constitution us for simple folk still burdened by the belief that words have meaning  

llog: Victor Henry Mair, sinologist and frequent Language Log contributor has passed away, aged 83  

new posting: an interactive map charting the careers of civil servants managing the bureaucracy of the British Empire—via Map Mania  

alignment chart: a cross-over of Chekhov’s Gun, Schrรถdinger’s Cat, Occam’s Razor and Murphy’s Law

in an instant: the last Polaroid factory in the world is in the Dutch town of Enschede 

bilberry buns: a Polish pastry gets its own holiday  

ozzy’s ozzy is a unique case: observations from a celebrity impersonator cruise—via Kottke 

welcome to the coolest summer of the rest of your lives (13. 584)

A heat wave in the British Isles, drought conditions and extreme temperatures extended through a period lasting from the end of June until the end of August, reached its climax on this day in 1976 with a then record peak of 35,9°C (97°F) registered in Cheltenham in the Cotswolds. Leading towards water rationing, impacts on wildlife and agriculture, mortality displacement (excess deaths) and a twelve-percent increase in food prices caused by crop failure, that summer was considered a reference point for stiflingly hot weather in the UK and Ireland, with temperatures just shy of the height over most of England for fifteen consecutive days, a plague of ladybirds and unprecedented forest fires, since rivalled by 2003, 2006, 2014, 2022 and the present season, amplified by anthropogenic greenhouse gas emissions resulting in self-reenforcing feedback loops.

synchronoptica 

one year ago: Jargeau and St Denis de l’Hรดtel (with synchronoptica)

two years ago: the ancient quarter of Maccagno

three years ago: superlative drone photography, Ziggy Stardust retires, assorted links to revisit plus composer Gyรถrgy Ligeti

four years ago: Dog Days of Summer, Double Indemnity (1944), more links to enjoy plus early AI image generation

five years ago: the Phaistos Disk (1908), US report on Unidentified Aerial Phenomena plus the offspring of Hermes and Aphrodite

six years ago: EXP TV, Mount Rushmore plus US support for the mujahideen in Afghanistan 

Thursday, 2 July 2026

day one-hundred twenty-two (13. 583)

Without irony, US ambassador to the UN Mike Waltz proclaims that Iran is holding the world economy hostage by its violations of the Islamabad MOU, whilst US permanent representative to NATO Matthew Whitaker says that the alliance has moved past operational frictions in the Middle East and is ready to demonstrate and deliver on defence alignment and spending ahead of next week’s summit in Ankara. Iran holds funeral services, a multi-day mass for the country’s leaders killed in strikes on the Khamenei compound at the start of the war at the end of February. Revolutionary Guard troops clash with Kurdish rebels in the far north of the Islamic Republic.